A town that does not leave you indifferent

Deià is a legendary Mallorcan town. In the 1960s and 1970s it became a refuge for artists from around the world, a place associated with freedom and creativity during the final years of the Franco dictatorship. Over time it also became an enclave of very valuable homes, many owned by international residents.

In summer, the cultural and gastronomic offer brings the town intensely to life and the access roads can become congested. In winter, Deià recovers another rhythm. Its streets and mountain paths can be explored in quiet, and the village again reveals why people either fall in love with it or remain unmoved—but rarely feel indifferent.

The path towards Llucalcari

In 2021 I walked one of the area’s best-known routes, connected with the Camí de Castelló or Son Coll. I left the car in Deià and followed the route down towards the coast until reaching the small hamlet of Llucalcari, very close to Cala Deià.

At that time, the path beside the sea had sections affected by landslides and demanded caution. Part of the return followed the MA-10 road. Although the route did not involve the largest changes in elevation, it lasted several hours and included repeated stairs and uneven paths. It was not suitable for someone with vertigo or limited fitness.

The reward was an immersive view of the landscape between Deià and Llucalcari. But the Tramuntana must be taken seriously. Conditions, property limits and paths change. Wear the right clothing, carry water, follow signs and verify current official information before setting out.

Cala Deià in winter

Cala Deià is one of Mallorca’s most desired places. In summer, the small car park can fill early and access becomes difficult. Winter is another story: no oppressive heat, fewer people and the solitude that the island offers in its quieter months.

One Saturday morning, while working as an estate agent and travelling across the island to visit possible homes for sale, I stopped there in wind, rain and cold. The sea was rough and the cove almost empty. It produced images no calm summer photograph could offer.

Mallorca is a paradise all year round, but not always for the same reasons.