Serra de Tramuntana
Walking from Sóller to Fornalutx and Biniaraix
A pandemic walk through the Sóller valley—and a portrait of the multilingual town at its centre.
The route that stayed with me
During the uncertainty of the pandemic, Mallorca offered limited possibilities. The extra weight from the now-famous sourdough and all the recipes found online had to be lost somehow. Like many people, I turned to hiking.
The island is exceptionally prepared for walking. Routes range from easy to demanding, and they can be enjoyed alone, as a couple or with a group. Of all the walks I completed, the route through the full Sóller valley remains the most breathtaking.
I began in Sóller, continued towards Fornalutx, climbed through the Biniaraix ravine and descended again towards Sóller. It took about four or five hours. The incline after Fornalutx demanded effort, but the landscape justified it completely: stone, terraces, water, trees and mountains arranged around the valley.
Other favourite areas include Alcúdia, Pollença and Artà, where there are many options at different levels. My memories are personal accounts rather than current route instructions. Weather, access and paths change, so walkers should always check official information, carry water and wear suitable footwear.
Sóller: a world behind the mountains
Because of its location and topography, Sóller maintained a strong and distinctive identity. It was once a village hidden behind mountains and reached most naturally by sea through Port de Sóller. Today it is international, lively and sometimes very busy, but I still consider it one of the island’s most culturally diverse towns.
Its multiculturalism enriches visitors and residents alike. The town offers extraordinary landscapes, direct connections to mountain trails, a beautiful port, reasonable access to Palma and, perhaps most importantly, a rich cultural and gastronomic life. Nearby Biniaraix and Fornalutx feel like small oases of calm.
Spanish, Mallorquí and English coexist every day; German is also frequently heard. Walking the streets is worthwhile in itself. The architecture combines different styles against the mountain backdrop. Some avenues unexpectedly remind me of Buenos Aires, while other buildings are unmistakably Mallorcan and Mediterranean.
The church deserves a chapter of its own. It remains a focal point for the community and anchors the main square. Sóller is a fusion of history, culture and landscape, and walking through the valley allowed me to understand that these are not separate attractions. They are one living place.
Sóller–Fornalutx · Mallorca